Appearance and features of care for pelargonium Australian Pink Rosebud

Pelargoniums of rosebud varieties are considered the most decorative representatives of this elegant flower family.

One of the most popular varieties, the favorite of flower growers is Australian pink - it is about this variety of zonal rosebuds that we will discuss in the article.

We will learn how to plant Australian pink, how to properly care for this plant, so that it pleases with lush flowering and excellent health.

Description

Pelargonium cultivar Australian pink rosebud has, as the name implies, Australian origin - a hybrid bred by local breeders. The variety is very elegant, resembles a compact bush rose. Note that this zonal rose-bearing pelargonium is distinguished by a rather delicate structure and sensitivity, therefore, it needs careful and thoughtful care.

External features

Pelargonium Australian pink is distinguished by exquisite decorative qualities. Her buds are in the correct shape until the end of the pink bud.

Note that in addition to the beautiful shape, the bud itself in this case is also quite large, which gives the general appearance of the plant even more decorative.

The leaves have a standard green color, but in this case rather bright, which is a beautiful frame of the buds. The inflorescences are large, the shoots are quite high. Petals have a rich pink color, further increasing the similarity of this pelargonium with a spray rose. The Australian pink bush itself is quite powerful and strong, tall, usually has many lateral branches.

Landing

We will find out all the details of the correct content of this pelargonium: what conditions are best suited for the beautiful Australian pink.

Lighting and location

Although this plant requires abundant lighting, it does not tolerate direct sunlight, like all rosebud varieties. Active solar radiation, aimed at the delicate buds and leaves of pelargonium, can lead to burns on them, a flower disease. Therefore, abundant but sparse lighting is best suited for Australian pink. If the plant is located on the southern windowsill, do not forget about its shading in the afternoon.

Temperature

Grade prefers growing at moderate or warm temperature, and also it is necessary to protect the plant from severe cooling. So, below +10 degrees, the temperature in the room with Australian pink should not fall. If in the summer take out a pot with this flower on a balcony or a loggia, in the fall when cold weather comes, do not forget to bring it back to the house.

Australia is the birthplace of this hybrid, so it is not surprising that the variety is quite thermophilic, unlike many other types of pelargonium.

The soil

In order to provide the plant with the best conditions for growth and development, you need to plant Australian pink in a nutritious, breathable soil. Note that the soil in this case should have a neutral acid reaction - pay special attention to this when buying.

You can also prepare the substrate on your own - for this you need to take the following components:

  • four parts of turf;
  • two parts of peat and humus;
  • one part perlite and sand.

Such a composition can optimally satisfy all the needs of the plant. However, do not forget to disinfect the self-prepared substrate in order to protect the plant from damage by pests and diseases.

Care

Consider the main points to care for this beautiful plant.

Watering

Australian pink needs moderate watering: without dry periods, and also without excessive waterlogging. Since this is a rosebud, and even thermophilic, watering should be carried out only with warm water. Cold water can cause root decay in this case, which is very dangerous.

Watering Australian pink is recommended only after you make sure that the topsoil has dried. Otherwise, waterlogging is possible. In winter, watering is recommended to be significantly reduced, since in the cold, pelargonium is at rest, restored and is preparing for the next growing season.

Top dressing

To add additional nutrition for the Australian pink begin in the spring. Intensive and active growth requires a large number of forces, which means additional micronutrients. Since spring, fertilizers are applied every 2-3 weeks.

Before flowering, Australian pink needs more nitrogenous compounds to form lush greens. But as soon as budding begins, it is necessary to switch to potassium and phosphorus so that the inflorescences are formed more actively and luxuriantly.

Transfer

This flower grows quite intensively, so from time to time it has to be transplanted into another pot. It is recommended to carry out this procedure in the spring before the start of the active vegetation of the plant.

Note: it is necessary that the new pot does not exceed the previous one more than by capacity, Australian pink may not even bloom, but go into the green mass.

You should also know that after transplanting to a new "house", you can not feed the plant for a month and a half. In a new soil, nutrients will be enough for the first time.

Pruning

Australian pink pelargonium forms rather tall bushes, and for their neat compact appearance, the plant requires regular pruning and pinching. Forming pruning is carried out in the first two years of the plant's life, in subsequent years only the initially specified shape is only supported.

The young shoots of the plant are pinched as soon as several leaves appear on them. Pinching leads to more active formation of lateral shoots, due to which the bush turns out more magnificent, more inflorescences are formed.

Wintering

Before the winter period begins, Australian pink pelargonium is recommended to be moved to a cooler room so that the plant gradually adapts to low temperatures. Around September-early October, it is recommended to begin to reduce the frequency and volume of watering, because the plant enters a dormant period. Feeding is also advisable to stop.

Complete rest lasts in this case from November to February. And with the lengthening of daylight, the Australian pink begins to come to life noticeably: at this time, you can already resume feeding and other care manipulations.

Diseases

Pelargonium Australian pink is susceptible to standard diseases for this family:

  • rot;
  • fungus;
  • withering.

Of the pests, the danger is:

  • aphid;
  • whitefly;
  • spider mite.

Next, we consider in detail what to do if a flower develops a disease.

Bacterial and fungal

Pathologies of this kind appear in Australian pink more often than others. Fungal and bacterial diseases are manifested, usually in the form of a spotting that affects the leaves of the plant. There is no salvation from diseases such as root and stem rot - plants will have to be destroyed by first cutting off the top for further propagation.

But some types of spotting can be cured by applying systemic fungicides. Spraying with a weak solution of aspirin can also help from adversity. Those leaves that are affected by the fungus must be removedso that the disease does not spread further.

Pests

As mentioned above, Australian pink is most often affected by whiteflies, ticks and aphids. To prevent the defeat of these pests, it is recommended to regularly examine the underside of the foliage of pelargonium for the presence of larvae and eggs of insects. If pests have already appeared, wash them off with soapy water, and then spray the bush with a suitable insecticidal preparation.

Breeding

Since this pelargonium belongs to rosebud varieties, then propagate it exclusively by cuttings. Seeds are not used in household use, since species characteristics of hybrid varieties are not transmitted through seed propagation. Let us consider in more detail the propagation scheme of Australian pink pelargonium by the method of cuttings.

The period suitable for cuttings in this case is from March to July. Instructions for proper reproduction:

  1. The shoot is cut from a large and healthy mother plant. The apical part is taken, about seven centimeters long.note: on a cut stalk there should be about 3-4 leaflets and from three to five internodes.

    See that the cutaway shoot is not green, but already semi-lignified, since young shoots do not take root in the ground, they do not take root.

  2. The stalk must be dried for two hours in the open air, and then cut off all the leaves and inflorescences from the bottom of it. The last measure will help the cuttings not to rot in wet soil.
  3. A mixture for the handle is better to take purchased - well disinfected. The fact is that young shoots of pelargonium are very vulnerable to pathogenic microorganisms, so it’s better not to risk it.
  4. The shoot is deepened into the prepared substrate for one internode, after which the container with it is placed on a well-lit window sill.
  5. After 2-4 weeks, the shoot takes root, and after it gets stronger, it is transplanted into a real pot.

Conclusion

We learned what the Australian pink pelargonium variety is. As you can see, the plant has excellent decorative qualities and not too much finicky. Thanks to the recommendations given in the article, you can grow a healthy, full-fledged plant, annually pleasing with lush, long flowering

Watch the video: Pelargonium (December 2024).

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